Maui: Up-Close and Personal

The Hawaiian demigod Maui slowed the sun's path across the sky so his mother's tapa cloth could dry....and perhaps so that visitors to the Valley Isle would have more hours in each glorious day to enjoy the enchantment of his namesake island! "Jan's Journeys" offered an overview of things to do and see in our original article, "Marvelous Maui"; now let's take a more up-close and personal look at this magnificent link in the exquisite Hawaiian chain.

The first time we visited Maui we flew over from Oahu on a 10-seater prop plane that almost crashed into a pineapple field on Lanai on the way...the tour company is now out of business, and there's a guy from Australia who may still be airsick! Even with that dubious beginning, our affair with Maui was firmly planted and has flourished through these last several years. With the abundant beauty in every direction, it's difficult to decide how to spend your all-too-limited time in this tropical Shangri-La. The following suggestions are some of our personal favorites for enjoying Maui up-close.

The dominant feature on the island is Haleakala ("house of the sun"), the dormant 10,000'+ volcano that hovers above the eastern portion. There are many ways to experience its majesty...by driving, taking a land tour or helicopter, and bicycling (the downhill run for those interested in group excursions - the uphill climb for some zealous souls). Whatever option you select, you'll pass the gentle grazing lands of the upcountry ranches giving way to ever steeper grades and switchbacks leading you into the high altitude homes of the native Nene geese and the elusive silversword plant, which grows from 5 to 20 years before blooming once then dying (which always seems rather sad to me). Once on the summit, the view is indescribable...there are very few reference points (if any) upon which to base a comparison. One analogy is often drawn from the fact that early astronauts trained for their first moonwalks in Haleakala's crater. Not having seen the moon up-close and personal, I can't comment from individual knowledge; but the moon has quite a bit to live up to in order to compete with the astonishing cinder cones (some rising up to 700-800', all in striking colors) that speckle the enthralling craterscape!! It seems almost alien; it's foreboding in some ways; it's incredibly mesmerizing; it's haunting (as a former, and maybe yet to be, home of Madame Pele). From ground level it can be somewhat overpowering in its vastness; from a helicopter it's ethereal, as you watch the clouds spill over the two "gaps" (where lava overflowed the crater long ago) and see Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea (on the Big Island) floating in the distance. On our May '96 visit, we took a Hawaii Helicopters flight, and I can still vividly recall (and always will) hearing an old Hawaiian chant on the headphones followed by the song "In My Life" ("There are places I remember....") as we crested one side of the crater and surveyed the grandeur below us.

That same helicopter then took us into beautiful canyons dotted with waterfalls, over the lush rain forest, past "Heavenly Hana" (much more on Hana and its famous/infamous road will follow), and up-close to the sources of such lovely legends as Puele's tears (waterfalls). As mentioned in my article "Kauai by Land, Sea and Air", also available on "Jan's Journeys", Hawaii Helicopters provides a video of your own flight, with the added attraction (unless you happen to get airsick at an inopportune time - then it would be decidedly unattractive) of an internal camera which periodically reveals the reactions of the passengers to the sights unfolding beneath them. Or in the case of Al, our comical and wonderful pilot, the grimacing faces as he told everyone to yawn to reduce ear pressure as we descended from Haleakala ...but he delayed telling us that he'd switched the camera inside! There are several good helicopter tours from which to select your Maui air adventure; but if you take Hawaii Helicopters, be sure to request Al. His corny jokes (if you don't already know, "pepe" is Hawaiian for cow...so don't let him alarm you), his stories and folklore of Maui, and his choice of audio tapes (we particularly enjoyed "Maui - Hawaiian Superman") all add up to a most memorable flight which you can relive at home with the video. As we were signing the guest book inside the office, Al was watching from the 'copter and radioed inside "Tell Jan to say something nice"; if you fly with him, tell him I did!!

Now onward to Hana and the fabled "road to". This is definitely a day-long trip, whether you drive yourself (there are cassette guides available) or take a tour. On our 3 journeys to the heavenly spot, we've always taken tours. Polynesian Adventure Tours is one of our favorites, but we highly recommend taking any one of the many tours available so all members of your group can enjoy the twisting, turning road (over 600 curves in all) while someone else drives and points out the most interesting sights, relates the tales of the area (as everywhere else in Hawaii, guides love to "talk story"), and stops at the best photo-ops. There are spectacular vistas around each bend in the road...so much luxuriant, verdant brilliance that it almost overloads the senses! You'll definitely run through multiple rolls of film as you pass many waterfalls (Puele has shed profuse tears here, too); the Keanae peninsula's peaceful village; black sand beaches with striking sea arches; and, finally, the tranquil little hamlet of Hana with its eccentric Hasagawa General Store and graceful (and exclusive) Hotel Hana Maui. The road past Hana winds its way around the island through changing climate zones with vastly differing landscapes, past such diverse sites as Charles Lindbergh's beautiful and serene resting place near Kipahulu (the headstone is inscribed with his poetic and poignant words - "if I take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea"), lava flows from Haleakala's most recent eruption (in the 1790s), and Tedeschi Winery with their pineapple and more traditional wines. Portions of the southeastern road on the trip back from Hana are rugged, to say the least; in fact, rental car companies discourage their customers from driving in this area. Tours now make the complete circle, weather/road conditions permitting (in the past many of them turned around and drove back from Hana or Kipahulu). Whether you return via the Hana "Highway" (and there's certainly enough to see that you won't be bored as you catch sights you missed on the way up) or take the challenging route back, you'll consider the time well spent as the dazzling scenery unfolds in front of you. So as they say....Hana Hou!!

On our 1996 return to Maui, we discovered two restaurants we hadn't found before - Pacific'O in Lahaina and Carelli's between Kihei and Wailea. Both have beach-side locations which provide unforgettable sunsets.  Carelli's is a bit overpriced on some items, and there are a few servers with definite "attitudes".  Pacific'O, however, was perfect in every respect...leading edge Pacific Rim cuisine beautifully presented!! Mama's Fish House still offers a grand location and delicious food, but their current reservation policy for dinner leaves something to be desired. The Haliimaile General Store continues to be well worth the effort to find it, with its excellent food and genial atmosphere. The Kula Lodge, upcountry on the slopes of Haleakala, is another sublime setting for lunch or dinner. There are many, many fine restaurants on Maui; these are just a few of our favorites.

There are also several luaus from which to choose. In the past we've really enjoyed the one presented by Old Lahaina, but we tried an entirely different experience on our last vacation...the Maui Tropical Plantation BBQ. It was billed as a "country/western luau", which was rather off-putting to me since I don't particularly like c/w music...but John thought it sounded like fun, so we went; and I was very pleasantly surprised. We've always made a stop at the Plantation to view the colorful gardens and visit the gift shop. It's even more enjoyable on the evenings when the BBQ is offered since ticket holders can take a tram ride through the property as the normal daytime activity is shut down, then take a leisurely stroll around the gardens before dinner (don't miss feeding the overly-friendly ducks). The dinner itself was very good, much better than what I'd expected (I anticipated overdone steak.....it wasn't!), and the show was excellent. It was a combination of Hawaiian and paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) music, which was an unusual alternative to the usual luau; and the audience participation lent a nice camaraderie to the evening.

We're received email from readers of our "Marvelous Maui" article asking for recommendations of where to stay on the island. We have no expertise in this area since we have a timeshare at the Maui Schooner in Kihei which is our home year after year. A peak at the sunset from the lanai of our condo will illustrate why we love it so!!

Snorkeling is a prevalent activity around Maui, and Molokini (the crater of an extinct volcano which rises above the sea as a crescent-shaped islet) is a popular destination as well as being a marine life sanctuary. We've taken several boats to Molokini; not all were able to make that destination since water and wind conditions are unstable in winter and early spring (there are always alternate dive sites, though). Our jaunts that have actually arrived at Molokini have provided excellent snorkeling, but none has been more enjoyable than the Pacific Whale Foundation trip we took in 1996. The crew is educated in marine biology and related fields and provides superior information and a learning experience to the passengers, as well as making sure that everyone has a great time! At the second stop (after Molokini), there was a guided reef tour for those who wished to snorkel along. All this fun, and the gratifying fact that all profits benefit marine conservation, made this a most pleasurable experience.

Of course, there's a multitude of ocean activities available around Maui....from sunset boat trips; to submarine dives; to deep sea fishing; to sailing on old mahogany-decked ships; to cruising on high-tech vessels. Then there's always the human element of surfing, body surfing, and wind surfing. One of the best places to view, or partake in, the later is Hookipa....on a day when the trades are fanning, the brightly colored sails and acrobatic moves of the sailboarders are a very entertaining exhibition.

As a dedicated shopper, I must mention the profusion of opportunities that abound from Wailea to Kihei to Lahaina to Kaanapali to Kapalua, not to forget the malls in Kahului and the small shops of Paia and Makawao. Even in the midst of such upscale boutiques as Chanel, Gucci and Tiffany in Whalers Village, you can find small open-air niches offering hand-made baskets and such treasures as the "Pineapple Lady", my recent fond acquisition which is natural fiber doll dressed in a tapa muumuu with lauhala hat and bag representing an unique Lahaina denizen. Plus, great news....my favorite shop on Kauai, Tropical Tantrum, has expanded to 4 locations (at last count) on Maui!. A tropical tantrum is, coincidentally, what I'd throw if I didn't get to patronize all of them...much to John's dismay!!

Now you have all sorts of tips for enjoying Maui, including those in our previous Jan's Journeys article, "Marvelous Maui"; and you can also take a peek at our 1998 and 1999 journeys to Maui in the "Hawaii '98" & Hawaii '99 additions to Jan's Journeys.  After all of this touring, snorkeling, boating, windsurfing, sailing, flying, driving, dining, shopping, etc. etc. etc..........RELAX! It's time to appreciate those extra hours of sunlight that Maui provided in his deal with the sun! At the end of the day, find a lanai and maybe a Mai Tai and some pupus (as previously noted for first-time visitors: pepe is cow; for the same group: pupu is appetizer - Californians already know this term since it has proliferated onto most of our menus). When you're comfortably settled, it becomes your very own personal time to cherish Maui and CELEBRATE THE SUNSET!!

You can do even more paradise dreaming with a photo reverie of Maui and Kauai...Hawaii 2000!!

Copyright © 1996 - 2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any way without our written permission.

Published -- July 15, 1996
Last Revision -- Sunday, 13-Aug-2006 03:21:55 GMT