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The Pillar Point Inn
Princeton- by-the-Sea, California
During our travels John and I have entertained fleeting
visions of owning a Bed & Breakfast (especially after visiting one that's particularly
inviting). We always conclude that we're better suited to discovering and enjoying very
special spots with owners who are experts at providing superb hospitality and unique
lodging. That's one of the reasons that we created "Jan's Journeys"; we love to
share those favorite "finds"! We've encountered such expertly accomplished
owners in James and Kazuko Popplewell, who own two B&Bs that meet our expectations in
every way. If you've taken our journey to The Whale Watch Inn near Gualala on the
Northern California coast, you've already been introduced to the owners, Jim and Kazie.
When we first met them at that most extraordinary lodge, we were delighted to learn that
they also own the Pillar Point Inn near Half Moon Bay (just south of San Francisco) on the San Mateo coastside. Since the Whale Watch provided one of our most
exceptional B&B experiences, we were eager to visit the Pillar Point.
NOTE: We have, in fact, enjoyed the Pillar Point Inn twice now...and this
article has been updated with our September '99 experiences.
The initial impression is that the two Inns couldn't be more different. The Whale Watch is
an enchanting, secluded retreat on a forested bluff above the dramatic and wild Mendocino
coastline. The Pillar Point overlooks a busy harbor with the constant activity of fishing,
pleasure, and touring boats; crabbers (in season); strolling sightseers; and bustling
businesses. With a second glance, however, the similarities surface: the Popplewells'
exquisite taste and elegant style are evident throughout; and, most notably, their
dedication to the comfort and enjoyment of their guests sets the tone for each visit.
Upon arriving at the Pillar Point Inn, you're greeted
warmly (with cookies and fruit awaiting);
as at the Whale Watch, there is no impersonal check-in desk. The parlor is
cozily appointed with comfortable sofas and chairs, a bookcase offering a variety of
reading material and videos (complimentary for the in-room VCRs), and a two-way fireplace
that also accents the adjoining breakfast room. The downstairs level contains a few rooms,
and thickly carpeted stairs on both sides of the reception area curve up to the second
floor and the balance of the 11 rooms.
We nestled into Room 10. The immediate focal point upon entering this second
story room is the magnificent bay window, topped by a dome, with an expansive view of the
harbor and its thicket of ships' masts. A cushioned window seat adds cozy
allure, with an afghan provided for snuggling; and a lovely tile fireplace (with
appropriate lighthouse motif) completes the tempting sitting area. This sunny room is
adorned in a soothing combination of various shades of blue, with coordinated linens and
accessories. The king-sized feather bed is a total joy...it's like sinking into an
enormous, puffy cloud! Furnishings are antique style and include a hideaway for the TV,
VCR and "old time" radio. An extra plus is a wooden "icebox", topped
by tile that matches the fireplace, which encloses a mini fridge with bottled water
thoughtfully tucked inside. A large dried-flower wreath occupies one
wall; this is a decorating touch repeated throughout the rooms, hallways and public areas
of the Inn, adding whimsy and the faint fragrance of eucalyptus.
Each room displays a regional theme; the plaque in #10
designates it the "Sybil Easterday Room". It honors a turn-of-the-century San
Francisco artist who became famous for her sculptures, had a life full of exhilarating
successes and poignant failures, and spent her reclusive final years in Half Moon Bay.
Several large photos reveal the young Sybil and her art before her tragic decline. This
unique feature provided a personal link to local history and made us want to investigate
the tales told by the other rooms.

Breakfast is served in the bright and cheery dining room,
enhanced by the glow of the aforementioned double fireplace. There's a pleasing buffet of
fruit, breads/pastries, cereals, coffee and juice; then the morning's hot entree, such as
spinach frittata or cheese blintz, is served. This is a relaxing time to meet the other
guests and exchange suggestions for exploring the surrounding area.

The Pillar Point Inn
also offers a second story balcony/patio, which overlooks a small garden with sculpted
shrubs and a profusion of flowers; both are pleasant sitting areas when weather
permits. In addition, there's a meeting room for business groups in search of an escape
from the office for a creative conference in relaxing surroundings.
Right across the street
from the Inn is Barbara's
Fish Trap - an unpretentious, funky little eatery that locals flock to...in particular for
fish & chips. Not a refined destination for an elegant dinner by any means, but a fun
spot (sometimes with a long wait); they also have a take-out window...great for
outdoor dining on one of the picnic tables overlooking the harbor. The San Benito House
restaurant resides in an historic
former hostelry on Main Street in Half Moon Bay (Main Street is also the location for
several small shops and boutiques). It's a beautifully restored building with an
appealing dining room (especially when the separating doors to the bar are closed to block
out the noise). We've always enjoyed a table by the windows
overlooking the charming courtyard/patio
with its large trees and colorful flowers.
During our most recent visit (9/99) we discovered that an old favorite of ours,
the wonderful Italian restaurant Mezza Luna, has relocated from Half Moon
Bay to a location just one block from the Pillar Point Inn. I'd always
wondered why someone didn't renovate the long-vacant
Princeton Inn (dating from 1906). Happily, the owners of Mezza Luna have done just
that; increasing the capacity of their very popular restaurant and providing
it with a beautifully decorated new home...and the food is still excellent! A couple
of other dining suggestions are the nearby Miramar (terrific views from its
Miramar Beach setting) and Pasta Moon (a lively and eclectic restaurant in Half
Moon Bay). The Moss Beach Distillery is notable
for the interesting old building, the ocean views, and the intriguing stories of resident
ghosts (no, we weren't able to make one materialize as we had hoped!). Unfortunately
when we went there for Sunday brunch, the
food was mediocre and was overpriced in relation to its flavor, originality, and
presentation; we haven't returned since our first visit.
The Fitzgerald Marine Reserve is nearby and provides a
grand oceanscape, tide pools, and serene walking trails. There are many other outdoor
pastimes in the area (including whale watch boats and hikes to see the visiting elephant
seals; both are seasonal). Information is available at the Inn regarding all of the
nature-loving opportunities; and the Pillar Point's innkeepers are available
with any information or assistance you might request, such as dining recommendations and
reservations, tour advice, and details of local highlights.
You have two options for taking advantage of the
excellence that Jim and Kazie Popplewell bring to California B&Bs. Follow the
"Jan's Journeys" link to The
Whale Watch Inn if you haven't already visited
that site. For Pillar Point Inn information and reservations, call 650-728-7377 or
800-400-8281; visit their website at http://www.pillar-point.com/, or click here to send them an
e-mail. Either
the Whale Watch or the Pillar Point will provide a sublime experience; pamper
yourself and visit both!

Copyright © 1996 -
2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any
way without our written permission.
Published -- March 23, 1996
Last Revision -- Sunday, 13-Aug-2006 03:41:16 GMT
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