Victoria is just as vibrantly colorful as the flower baskets adorning the Inner Harbor lampposts in its famous floral signature! Situated on Vancouver Island (the largest Pacific island in North America), 40 miles across the Strait of Georgia from the B.C. mainland, the capital city of the province of British Columbia was established by the Hudson’s Bay Company as Fort Victoria in 1843 in honor of the British queen. The fort officially became a city in 1862, and the varied combination of cultures that had already passed through and those that were gathering there gave the growing town its unique character and style. There were the Northwest Coast Indians, with their stunning totem art; the fur traders of the Hudson’s Bay Company; miners venturing to the gold fields (who became a large and raucous presence with the Klondike strike in 1897); the Royal Navy, which came for the low-priced land; the Englishmen who journeyed there because of the sunny climate and proceeded to create a British reproduction in the colonies (complete with cricket fields, English gardens and semi-castles). All of those influences have mingled to produce today’s Victoria...a city of great natural beauty and graceful old-world charm; a place where horse-drawn carriages coexist with touring rigs that are bicyclist-propelled; an urbane society which enjoys garden parties and high-tea as well as kayaking and windsurfing. It has been said of Victoria that it is "more English than the English"...a stroll around town will reinforce this statement; but it is also a product of the aboriginal people and all others who have taken part of Western Canada’s fascinating history!

An impressive focal point on the beautiful Inner Harbor is the B.C. Legislative Buildings (also called the Provincial Parliament Buildings). Completed in 1897 and opened in 1898 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee, these ornate structures overlook the busy waterway and send a bright greeting to passersby with "Welcome to Victoria" written in flowers. At night the scene becomes totally enchanting as the 3,300 light bulbs which bedeck the buildings (and were part of the original architectural design) are lit, casting a glow over the area. These small globes were initially turned on in June 1887, and their first major replacement didn't take place until 1976...things were built to last in those old days!!

The other gracious anchor on the Inner Harbor is the Empress Hotel, built in 1908 and planned by the same architect who was responsible for the Parliament Buildings. This Grande Dame contains restaurants, tea rooms (with all of the appropriate ceremony), boutiques, an historical overview...and a lovely step back into another age. It is adjoined by the very modern Victoria Conference Center, which provides a striking counterpart in design that manages to blend pleasingly with its older companion. Located just across the street are the Royal British Columbia Museum; the Carillon Tower (a gift from BC residents of Dutch descent, with 623 bells producing wonderful melodies); and Thunderbird Park, which contains several examples of the totem art which has been handed down from the aboriginal inhabitants as well as a carving shed in which traditional pole carving continues to take place. A glance through the magnificent and stately poles reveals the Empress, the Conference Center, and the Victoria skyline beyond....all the vibrant worlds merging!

On the other side of the Conference Center is Crystal Garden, a glass hall which opened in 1925 (and is another product of that very industrious architect who designed the Legislative Buildings and the Empress). It has been, at various times, the largest indoor swimming pool in the British Empire, a ballroom, an exhibit hall, and the site of W.W.II parachute training! Today it is a conservatory described as "a tropical paradise under glass". The exhibitions include hundreds of tropical plants, birds, the world's smallest monkeys, fruit bats, waterfall and fountains, and a special enclosure containing free-flying butterflies. The organization is actively involved in conservation and preservation, as well as breeding programs dedicated to returning endangered species to their natural habitats.

A stroll down bustling Government Street, and its intersecting avenues, passes by shops of all descriptions and price ranges; cafes and restaurants of every cuisine; pubs and night spots; vendors' carts and shady areas to relax while enjoying their offerings. There are also glimpses of Victoria's past in the historic buildings which have been lovingly preserved. One example is Bastion Square, the 1889 site of Victoria's original jail and first provincial courthouse. A different type of building preservation is evident in Eaton Centre, a stylish 4-level indoor mall. When it was built, the facade of the old building was removed and applied to the new structure so that it fits unobtrusively into the streetscape while being totally contemporary on the inside.

Nowhere are the careful preservation efforts more evident than in the Old Town section of downtown Victoria. This part of the Inner Harbor area was, at one time, neglected and run-down; but it has been beautifully revitalized and stands as a glowing testament to the city's dedication to rescuing and protecting its past. We stayed in Old Town at Swans Hotel, which has won well-deserved awards for the restoration of a heritage building; its interesting history, in brief, is as follows. In the late 1800s the sector prospered with gold miners preparing for their trek to the Klondike. The Scott and Peden families built warehouses and dealt in grain and groceries. In 1913 they constructed a new warehouse, which is now the location of Swans. It was once a granary and feed store; the grain was carried in by trains which, in fact, came right into the building through what is now the entrance to Swans (part of the original rail is hanging in the Pub, and many other artifacts are displayed in the hotel). Trains still come to nearby Victoria Station, but that's now the end of the line...and passengers are carried rather than grain. In the 1950s the building was purchased by the Buckerfield company, and it remained in use as a feed store...later a nursery was added. A shepherd from England named Michael Williams was a customer of the store, buying food for the dogs he trained. In the 1980s Mr. Williams was through training dogs and was buying buildings in downtown Victoria, with the dream of maintaining the character of the area while remodeling and rejuvenating the old structures. In 1988 Mr. Williams bought the site of the feed store he once patronized and, with the assistance of local architects, artisans and craftsmen, gave it new life as the award-winning Swans Hotel. What a wonderful job they did....it just oozes old-world, European charm, and Victorians are justifiably proud of this splendid renovation! In a bow to its past and to one of its former owners, grain is still an important part of the old building; Buckerfield's Brewery opened on the premises in 1989! Tours of the microbrewery are available, and the British ales and Canadian lagers may be purchased in the onsite Wine & Beer Shoppe...or enjoyed in Swans' Pub, a handsome bar and cafe with a glassed-in patio (rimmed with more of those wonderful flower baskets). The hotel also offers a warm and inviting restaurant, The Fowl & Fish Ale and Oyster House. The decor is eclectic and the food is delicious....the fresh seafood and original works of art combine for a most enjoyable dinner! Artwork is also used as an accent in the 29 guestrooms at Swans. We stayed in a 2-bedroom suite with a most unique floor plan for a hotel: there was a living room, dining area, and small kitchen downstairs; the bedrooms and bath were upstairs...it seemed more like a condo than a typical hotel room. I later learned that during its first year, Swans offered apartments, which explains the layout (and the fact that the lobby area is rather small). The Hotel is an enjoyable walk away from all of the Inner Harbor attractions, and the staff was gracious and helpful with suggestions, recommendations, and reservations. Oh yes...about that name: Michael Williams refers to the Hans Christian Andersen story: "This building was truly an ugly duckling before we started." Well, it definitely blossomed into a lovely swan!!

Swans' original builders, the Scott and Peden families, built several other warehouses in the Old Town area, including those that now comprise Market Square. With portions dating to 1898, this historic complex has also been restored in a way that preserved the heritage buildings while turning them into a festive marketplace containing many specialty shops and restaurants. Market Square is close to Swans; nearby in the other direction lies the oldest Chinatown in Canada. It is tiny today, barely a couple of blocks long; but entrance is made through the impressive Gate of Harmonious Interest, and it's easy to imagine those long-ago days when it flourished as one of the largest such areas in North America. The past flickers to life vividly on Fan Tan Alley, a maze-like warren of small doorways. The street was supposedly built to be too narrow for police to be able to successfully chase the opium sellers of yore. The shops in the Alley still have a bit of mystery about them since some have no signs; but the brothels, gambling dens and opium parlors of old Chinatown have given way to stores offering fresh produce, clothing, household items, gifts and trinkets.

A penniless Scottish coal miner by the name of Robert Dunsmuir came to B.C. in the 19th century. Through hard work he went from miner to coal baron, becoming the first millionaire in the province and the most prominent man of his time. He envisioned building a magnificent castle in Victoria for his wife Joan and named their home-to-be Craigdarroch in honor of the birthplace in Scotland of Annie Laurie. Construction was begun in 1887 and completed in 1889; sadly, just a few months after Robert had died. Joan (along with their children) moved into the Castle in 1890 and was said to have made her way up the 87 steps to the tower room to enjoy her afternoon tea while gazing on the wonderful view of Victoria beneath her. She lived in this grand residence until her own death in 1908. At that time, family feuding unfortunately took over; the contents were auctioned off; and Craigdarroch Castle was never again used as a private home. During the years it has been the site of a military hospital, a college, a school board office, and a music conservatory...and the Castle wasn't always treated with the respect that it deserved. Since 1979 it has been an historic museum, renovations and restoration have been ongoing, and the public can view the beauty that Robert didn't live to enjoy. The Castle is an approximate 40-45 minute walk from the Inner Harbor; it may also be reached by cab, city bus or tour bus.

Victoria is a city of flowers and flower-lovers. Those ever-present flower baskets pop up as soon as the weather allows (and require nighttime trucks with pole attachments to attend to their watering needs). As early as February, Victorians begin looking forward to the blooms of spring. In fact, a yearly ritual is their "flower count". Flower devotees from all corners of the city count the new blossoms in their crocus beds and call in their numbers to be totaled in a farewell to winter!! All of the private and public gardens are a delight to behold; none more so than Beacon Hill Park, a large sanctuary just 5 minutes from downtown, which has been a soothing haven since 1882. It contains sculpted gardens that bloom all year, picnic areas, playground, wading pool, a lake, a petting zoo, lawn bowling, a 100-year old cricket pitch, a bandshell...all ending at a seawall that has waves dramatically crashing over its bounds during the winter.

A famous location that will overwhelm the senses is located on Vancouver Island's Saanich Peninsula - Butchart Gardens. Robert Butchart was a pioneer of Canada's cement industry; and in 1906, as increasing numbers of guests came to their estate for social occasions, his wife Jennie had gardens planted to brighten visitors' path. When the limestone quarry on their property was abandoned in 1908, Jennie had trees planted to block the view of the plant and topsoil brought in for new gardens on the quarry's floor. It is said that she even had employees lower her down the sides of the pit so that she could plant ivy in the crevices! Out of this came the marvelous "sunken garden", which was followed by more and more creations, and the inventive planting continues today. Still owned by members of the family, Butchart Gardens covers 50 acres containing fountains, pools, several formal areas (including the Japanese, Rose, Italian and Sunken Gardens); flowers, trees and shrubs of every imaginable variety; and restful areas to sit and admire the riot of color. The Butcharts' home is a focal point (with a restaurant inside), and there are seasonal events such as evening fireworks during the summer and festive lighting at Christmas. As might be expected, all of this beauty attracts many visitors...so don't expect to be able to stroll in silent solitude, especially during peak season! Nevertheless, it is definitely worth the short drive from Victoria to view the splendor that has grown from Jennie Butchart's initial vision!!

Obviously, the sea holds an important place in the lives of the residents of Vancouver Island. The Port of Victoria has three harbors: Inner, Outer and Esquimalt; all provide access to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the gateway to the Pacific Ocean. The Strait also leads to the Gulf Islands (so-named on the Canadian side of the border) and the San Juan Islands (so-named on the U.S. side). The many available water activities include whale watching. There are 3 resident pods of Orcas (killer whales), numbering approximately 100 of these intriguing mammals. Whale watching tours are exceedingly popular...even more so during the summer when the pods are closer to shore. This isn't quite like whale watching in Hawaii, though; those waiting for their tour boats may be spotted wandering around in bright orange, full-length suits that are provided as protection against water (and wind) temperatures!

Evenings in Victoria begin in a most fetching way as the sun goes down and lights begin flickering their reflections on the water of the Inner Harbor. The clip clopping sounds of the horse-drawn carriages mingle with the rather mournful strains of a bagpipe. Crowds gather as the buskers begin their nightly shows...many of Victoria's street entertainers are city traditions; some have delighted audiences for 20 years or more. In a thoroughly enticing salute to the end-of-day those 3,300 little bulbs adorning the Parliament Buildings twinkle to life and form a brilliant, never-to-be forgotten display! The diversity of cultures, the variety of sights and sounds, the old-world charm combined with a bustling, modern city...all of these facets come together to produce the vibrance of Victoria. John and I definitely recommend this most special destination; we'll certainly return for future journeys! The online Travel Guide for Victoria and Vancouver Island (http://www.victoriabc.com/) provides information on lodging, dining, activities and anything else you may need to plan your own journey to always vibrant Victoria!!!!

Copyright © 1997 - 2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any way without our written permission.

Published -- August, 7 1997
Last Revision -- Sunday, 13-Aug-2006 03:42:05 GMT