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stained glass window in Pacific Edge building
The Whale Watch Inn
Gualala, California

Have you ever walked into a place for the first time, yet felt as if
you were coming "home"? That's how The Whale Watch Inn seemed to us when we
initially discovered it in 1995. I hesitate to write this article because I'd like to keep
it our special secret; but due to
my generous nature, I'm going to share this truly exceptional
destination with you (actually, when I so totally fall in love with a place, I'm compelled
to rave about it...the writer in me can't keep quiet!!). This article was originally added
to "Jan's Journeys" after our first visit to the Whale Watch in September 1995.
We finally returned in February 1997....much too long a period of
time to be away from this haven. We just had to return the end of May
1997 to see the newly renovated Pacific Edge Building! Then the Inn beckoned us back once
again in July 1999
(I don't know how we stayed away so long!). So this
article is now updated with new photos and commentary gathered during our second, third
and fourth getaways...and I'm sure more will follow!
This very unique Bed and Breakfast is the quintessential
romantic escape. Its secluded location gives a hint of the type of getaway this will be:
drive up Highway 1 through the tiny north coast town of Gualala, past the even tinier town
of Anchor Bay, and you'll find the Whale Watch nestled among majestic trees on a bluff
overlooking the Pacific (watch carefully for the sign or you might miss it; the Inn blends
in just that perfectly with its surroundings).

As you enter the office in the main building (Pacific Edge), you aren't hustled into a line at a
registration desk. Instead, you're invited to make yourself comfortable in one of the
multi-leveled areas of the art-filled reception room where you're offered a chair by the
fireplace and a glass of wine, with an incomparable view of the ocean to contemplate while
one of the innkeepers completes your check in. This is the first clue of the genteel and
unobtrusive service you'll receive during your stay.
The 18 rooms are spread among 5 buildings, and each chamber is individually decorated to
produce its own personality and special ambience. All have fireplaces, private decks with
ever-changing views of the spectacular seascape, down comforters with richly embroidered
bed linens, many delightful embellishments in the furnishings, and several have in-room
Jacuzzi tubs. Due to artful design, the private decks are "private", indeed;
they're arranged so that no two are side by side giving them a very sequestered feeling.
Breakfast is delivered to each room in a large wicker basket at the time requested by the guests. This isn't a
continental miscellany; it's a full and luscious meal. The hot entrees during our visit
included eggs Florentine, blueberry blintzes, and quiche...all accompanied by muffins or
croissants, fresh fruit, coffee or tea and juice. Another temptation is the tasty snack
basket that may be ordered from the innkeepers and will be delivered to your room. It
includes wine, cheeses, crackers, fruit, nuts, cookies....that's quite a
"snack"! We've
indulged ourselves during two visits and thoroughly enjoyed sitting on our deck in the sea
breeze while nibbling on the treats. There is a guest reception Saturday evenings in the
Whale Watch Room (appropriately housed in the Whale Watch building). This octagonal room
is the perfect meeting place with its free-standing fireplace, panoramic view of ocean and
trees, and big comfortable chairs. There are also books, magazines, and a telescope - for
whale watching, of course! This is the location of the only phone for guests'
usage (there are no TVs,
phones, FAX machine, etc. in the rooms to spoil the tranquility). To describe the
reception as "wine and cheese" is an injustice; guests are offered a selection
of wines and champagne, as well as a marvelous array of hors-d'oeuvres. This is a terrific
way to meet and mingle with the other guests...and compare notes on the individual
characteristics of the various rooms (this is where we learned that another couple was
hoping we wouldn't show up so that they could move into our lovely "Pacifica"
room!!).
The owners of the Inn, Jim and Kazuko Popplewell, were on site
during our first visit, and we met them at the reception. After talking with them, it's
obvious where the extraordinary level of customer service comes from; they're totally
devoted to their guests' every need and select their superb staff accordingly. Kazie gave
us a brochure on the other B&B they own, The Pillar Point Inn, in Princeton-by-the Sea, CA. After talking to her, we definitely planned a
future trip there since we knew it would offer her same high level of caring attention. In
fact, between our first and second Whale Watch journeys we did go to the Pillar Point and
found it to be totally delightful (see the "Jan's Journeys" article linked
above).
As for our guest-suite during our first visit, we
had the exquisite "Pacifica" in the Pacific Edge building. It had all
of those elusive qualities that combine to make a superlative experience. There were
striking views of the ocean from either the deck or the cozy window seat. A skylight over
the bed offered a view of the stars twinkling by at night, while the fireplace added its own glow. Little nosegays of fresh flowers were tucked
away around the room; there was an inviting Jacuzzi for two (complete with rubber ducky);
plus, the constant murmuring of the sea added to the magic of this hideaway. In fact, we
found it difficult to leave Pacifica to go out for dinner or sightseeing...it's that appealing!
When we mentioned this to the Inn's manager, she replied: "Then I've done my job
right"...so true!! There are journals in the rooms where guests share their
impressions and experiences. Pacifica obviously inspired all of its other
visitors, as well, indicated by the entries we read (many are quite entertaining, a few
are a bit erotic, all exhibited the writer's delighted and personal responses to the Inn
and to Pacifica). We started planning our return even before we checked out, and we
narrowed our choices down to a couple of other rooms for our next visit...if we could
resist returning to that enchanting Pacifica retreat!!
July '99 Update:
 For visit number four in July 1999, we cozied ourselves
into Silver Mist, also in the Pacific Edge building. This is the room which contains
the Whale Watch stained glass window, featured at the beginning of this article. Now
we're faced with a pleasant quandary: Pacifica has strong competition from Silver Mist as
our sanctuary of choice! With its multi-levels, unique architecture, subtle colors, skylit
airiness...and of course, that captivating window to contemplate from the Jacuzzi -- this
suite is a total delight! For an added treat, we had our first-ever sightings of the
legendary "Ringtail". We'd heard tales of this little guy and had seen
photos in one of the albums in the Whale Watch Room; but having never spotted him (or
perhaps her), we weren't sure where fact ended and myth began! From the information that accompanied the album
pictures, this is a Central American Cacomistle, whose habitat covers wooded areas in
parts of the western and southwestern U.S. (although it's rarely seen). Apparently
they're great mousers, and the early California miners kept them as pets for that very
purpose. During
this visit (finally) the nocturnal cutie included our deck in
its rounds and sampled a few delicacies offered deckside as an invitation (leftover
Pheasant from St. Orres was a big success!!) From reading entries in the room
Journal, other guests have given the engaging creature numerous descriptions (the
consensus is a kind of cat-raccoon-squirrel-ferret combo) and various names. I
immediately dubbed him/her "Ringo"....what could be more appropriate!
As the last embers in the fireplace flashed in the darkness, we once again listened to the
 chant of the Pacific as dreams approached in Silver
Mist. Those sea-sounds reminded me of the words of a beautiful song by the late,
much beloved Hawaiian singer Israel Kamakawiwo'ole: "Sound of the ocean, soothes my restless soul;
sound of the ocean, rocks me all night long". That's as perfect a
description as I've ever heard!
return
to beginning
May '97 Update:
We sampled another room on our second visit in February 1997 (you'll see the
description and photos of "The Swan" in the following paragraph). The Pacific
Edge building was being totally renovated during that trip, and all the rooms therein
(including Pacifica) were in the remodeling process. We returned in May '97, as mentioned
previously, and once again settled into Pacifica....all fresh and new and even more
beautiful!! I don't know how Kazie and her staff managed it, but they were able to pull
off the impossible and improve Pacifica!!!

view from Pacifica's window seat
February '97 Update:
For our February '97 trek we stayed in the charming
Swan Room in Cygnet House. This room was a confection of seafoam green with pastel
accents. The skylight over the bed provided a dreamy nighttime scene of stars, moon, and
the trees that rise above Cygnet House. A 2-person Jacuzzi sits beneath a greenhouse
window, providing the effect of bathing in a tree house! There is also a small kitchen in
the Swan, something just a few of the rooms offer. Though we used only the fridge (for
chilling champagne!), the kitchenette would probably be a welcomed addition to a master
chef who prefers to whip up his or her own private meals for two. Although the vista from
Pacifica was more dramatic due to the fact that the aptly-named Pacific Edge building is
perched near the brink of the rugged cliff, the ocean views from the Swan room were,
nevertheless, sweeping and thrilling.
view from the Swan room
return
to beginning
 When you are finally able to
pull yourself away from nesting in your room, there are stairs leading down to the beach
below the Inn. Be forewarned...there are approximately 130 steps going down, but they multiplied
to at least 500 huge obstacles as we crawled back up!! If that isn't enough
Stairmaster training for you, there's always the Point Arena Lighthouse to explore...with its
146 narrow and steep steps spiraling ever upward --- what, no elevator?!!

The innkeepers can assist you with what to do and
see in the area, as well as with dining reservations. Our favorite restaurants include:
St. Orres...a very distinctive building (also a B&B) with an unusual menu and
delectable and artistic food; the intimate Victorian dining room in the Old Milano Hotel;
and the eclectic Pangaea Cafe in Point Arena (charred rare ahi prepared exactly the way I
love it...rare almost to the point of sashimi). Oceansong, although somewhat lacking
in atmosphere, has good seafood. The Food Company is an excellent
place to pick up gourmet carry-out for a romantic in-room picnic back at the Whale Watch.
I should point out that many of the local restaurants don't take credit cards but will
accept personal checks. The reservation confirmation sent by the Whale Watch innkeepers
includes a list of restaurants in the area, with descriptions of the type of food offered
and payment policies. Also, a book of menus is available in the Whale Watch Room.

Series of photos taken at Gualala Point
As you might guess, all of this luxurious
pampering doesn't come at bargain prices. As one guest wrote in the room journal, however,
"Anyone who says you're crazy to spend that much for a room has never seen
Pacifica."; it was signed "a kid from Jersey". The kid was absolutely
right!! Call the innkeepers at 800-WHALE-4-2 or send them an e-mail at
whale@mcn.org for more information and to make reservations for
your own romantic interlude at this remarkable Inn.

picture from Whale Watch Inn postcard
Copyright © 1995 -
2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any
way without our written permission.
Published -- September 14, 1995
Last Revision -- Sunday, 13-Aug-2006 03:25:52 GMT
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